Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
